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Male Folk Clothes of Transcarpathian Hutsuls in the XIX through to the First Half of the XXth Century

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The authors of the publication:
Kotsan Vasyl
p.:
5-18
DOI:
https://10.15407/nte2021.03.005
Bibliographic description:
Kotsan, V. (2021) Male Folk Clothes of Transcarpathian Hutsuls in the XIX through to the First Half of the XXth Century. Folk Art and Ethnology, 3 (391), 5–18.

Author

Kotsan Vasyl

a Ph.D. in History, a director of the Transcarpathian Museum of Folk Architecture and Customs in Uzhhorod, an associate professor at Archeology, Ethnology and Cultural Studies Department, SHEE Uzhhorod National University. ORCID: http://orcid.org/0000-0003-0644-9725

 

Male Folk Clothes of Transcarpathian Hutsuls in the XIX through to the First Half of the XXth Century

 

Abstract

The author, based on processed literature, archival and field ethnographic materials, as well as fund collections of Transcarpathian museum, conducts, in his article, a comprehensive analysis of components of the traditional male folk clothing of Transcarpathian Hutsuls in the XIXth through to the first half of the XXth century. In Transcarpathia, Hutsuls have lived compactly within Rakhiv District. According to characteristic features of the Hutsuls’ national costume, four local-territorial centres of Rakhiv District’s Hutsuls can be distinguished: Yasinia, Bohdan, Rakhiv, and Velykyi Bychkiv ones. The paper describes in detail the process of cutting male shirts in the region under study: the condition of shirts, neckbands, and sleeves. The author pays a special attention to embellishing shirts with embroidery. The latter’s evolution can be traced in replacing white hemp threads with black, red or blue ones, and later – in the transition to polychromy. Male shirts were dominated by geometric patterns, and since the late XIXth to early XXth centuries, stylized plant motifs combined with geometric ones had begun to spread.

Ancient types of Hutsul male waist clothes were red cloth trousers, as well as narrow leather and woven woolen belts. They were an ethnographically distinguishing trait. Cloth red trousers within Transcarpathia were worn solely by Rakhiv District’s Hutsuls. Their distinctive feature was the embellishment of the connecting side seams with decorative whipstitching strips with dark orange, green and goldish threads. Among the components of Transcarpathian Hutsul male attire stood out headdresses, in particular nuptial hats, which were decorated with wreaths of flowers. In Transcarpathia, only the Rakhivshchyna Hutsuls had shlyk – a variety of hibernal fur headdresses. A real Hutsul cannot be imagined as well without such components additional to folk costumes as various bags, axes, and pipes.

 

Keywords

folk clothing, Hutsuls, Transcarpathia, shirt, trousers, belt, tank top, outerwear, headwear and footwear.

 

References

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