Oliynyk Maryna – a Ph. D. in History, a junior research fellow at the Ukrainian Ethnological Centre Department of the M. Rylskyi Institute of Art Studies, Folkloristics and Ethnology of the NAS of Ukraine
Socio-Economic and Religious-Ceremonial Factors of Ukrainian Folk Attire Extension in Context of Kyiv’s Urban Realities
(Second Half of the XIXth to Early XXth Centuries)
The article deals with the issues of presence of conventional Ukrainian attire in everyday-life practices of the city of Kyiv from 1861 to 1920. The presented material is based on statistical data of a one-day census of the 1874 Kyiv inhabitants and the 1897 First General Census of the Russian Empire’s population.
Folk attire is considered as a marker of social life in the city, whose ethno-cultural outlines were clearly supplemented by Ukrainian peasants. As the sources of the study became the reminiscences of Kyivans of the late XIXth to early XXth centuries, as well as works of art, in which their authors described various pictures of urban everyday life and manners and customs of the time. There have been worked out the drawings by Yu. Pavlovych performed from nature in Kyiv.
The article examines the influence of socio-economic factor of the extension of folk attire. As typical wearers of Ukrainian apparel labelled are commuters who regularly arrived at the city with the view of selling their own production, as well as a part of landless peasants looking for job placement either at Kyiv’s large enterprises or in the sphere of rendering services in private households.
A special consideration is given to the religious-ceremonial factor that has contributed to the emergence of traditional Ukrainian culture’s bearers in urban life. There has been outlined the ethno-cultural portrait of visitors of Kyiv temples, there has been also accentuated the periodicity of the appearance of a mass of pilgrims, and there have been indicated general features of the appearance of their attire. The article’s authoress lays the stress on the presence of Ukrainian folk ceremonies in urban practices promoting the dissemination of visual national markers being distinctly demonstrated by traditional attire.
conventional Ukrainian attire, urban everyday life, city of Kyiv.
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