Trends of Researching Folk Attire in the Light of Modern Interpretation

Author

Ponomar Liudmyla

a Ph.D. in History, a senior research fellow at the Ukrainian Ethnological Centre Department of the NASU M. Rylskyi Institute of Art Studies, Folkloristics and Ethnology

Trends of Researching Folk Attire in the Light of Modern Interpretation

Abstract

The article is dedicated to urgent tasks of national attire research. These are the problems related to the study of the history of traditional clothing, peculiarities of regional dress, new functions of folk clothes in the conditions of urbanization and national elation of Ukrainians. The controversy on the columns of online publications about the time of emergence of embroidery of Ukrainian shirts, Cossack clothing, the development of ethnic style, etc. is considered in the paper.

The importance of folk attire as a cultural phenomenon in national unification is emphasized. The revival of folk clothing, national style in fashion raises new research issues for ethnologists, art critics, fashion designers.

The thought, that the function of folk clothing as a marker of self-identification has been determined by the war is denied, and also the opinion about borrowing of fashion on vyshyvanka from Lithuania is disproved.

It is emphasized, that the revival of folk costume, extension of ethnic style are connected first and foremost with national elation, that traditional clothing is an effective source of information and a source of fashion innovations of the 21st century for contemporaries.

The outstanding importance of the resonance projects Sincere. Heritage, Sincere. Holidays, Baba Yelka and others is accentuated in this context. Great interest in traditional clothing requires the creation of a wide information base of knowledge about folk costume. It is emphasized in the article,  that the most important task for the researchers of clothing – ethnologists, art studiers, folklorists – consists in the creation of informative catalogue of the Ukrainian folk attire.

Debatable issues have distinguished the necessity of fundamental research of the clothing of the Kyivan Rus period and the 16th  – 18th centuries, understanding of the functions of folk attire as a cultural phenomenon at the present stage.

Keywords

folk attire, modern research problems, origin of shirts embroidery, myths about Cossack clothes, “Polubotchyshyna” shirt, ethnic style.

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